Japan’s Dashi Guide: basic methods and details

In the previous article “Dashi and Umami: like a science experiment”, you learned the types of Japan’s most common dashi and how they work. In this article, I will explain how to extract common-used dashi in more detail. You may think it requires some troublesome work because the usage depends on the type of dashi. In fact, though it may not seem easy, once you remember it, it is not that difficult. Acquiring it would be useful for you to further improve your cooking skills, and also you will find there are quite a few Japanese words, so you may also increase your vocabulary.

Making Katsuo Dashi

First, before the talking about the method of extraction, katsuobushi is often called “kezuribushi” if it is in flake-form, as “kezuri” means to be shaved in this context.

Atsu kezuri, usu kezuri, hasai or saihen, ito kezuri and kona kezuri

There are various types of kezuribushi. Thinly sliced flakes called “usu kezuri” look like fluttering petals, so they are also called “hanakatsuo”, as the word “hana” means flower. Thick flakes are called “atsu kezuri”, and they are used exclusively to extract dashi (but actually they can be eaten as they are like crisps). In addition, there are thread-like slices called “ito kezuri”, then “hasai” or “saihen”, that have been cut into smaller pieces from usu kezuri, and powdered ones called “kona kezuri”. Other than atsu kezuri, they are also very often used as a topping to add flavour to dishes such as takoyaki, okonomiyaki and so on.

How to make
Ingredients:
・Kezuribushi 30g
・Water 1l

1. Put water in a pot and bring it to a boil.
2. When it boils, turn off the heat and add the kezuribushi.
3. Let it stand for 1-2 minutes while the kezuribushi sinks to the bottom of the pot.
4. Strain it by using a strainer with kitchen paper or a clean cotton cloth. (If you use a fine-mesh strainer, you don’t necessarily have to spread paper or cloth on it.)
5. Well done! It is katsuo dashi and ready to use for any dish.

Tips:
・If you use atsu kezuri, step 3 should be this: Boil on medium heat for about 10 minutes while removing the scum.
・At step 4, don’t squeeze the after-extracted kezuribushi, otherwise a harsh taste will come out.
・The left-over kezuribushi can still be cooked as furikake (a condiment for rice or whatever). Chop it into fine small pieces with a kitchen knife, then season with soy sauce or mentsuyu (Japanese noodle soup base), and fry until there is no water or slight moisture in a frying pan. You can add some sesame seeds as you like. Then the furikake is ready.

Making Kombu Dashi

There are four kinds of kombu that are suitable to make kombu dashi: ma kombu, rausu kombu, rishiri kombu, and hidaka kombu.

How to make
Ingredients:
・Kombu 10-20g
・Water 1l

1. Lightly wipe the surface of the kombu with a well-wrung, clean cloth.
2. Soak the kombu in the water for about 30 minutes.
3. Put over medium heat and then pick out the kombu just before boiling. (For example, when small bubbles come up from the bottom of the pot.)
4. Awesome! Kombu dashi is completed!

Tips:
・At step 1, don’t strongly wipe or wash the kombu with water, as the white powder on the surface is an umami component and it will fall off.
・At step 3, don’t boil it too much, a stickiness and harsh taste will be released, and then the flavour will be impaired.
・The after-extracted kombu can still be eaten if it is cut into small and then simmered or put into a soup dish as an ingredient, etc. or however you like.

Making Niboshi Dashi

How to make
Ingredients:
・Niboshi 20-30g
・Water 1l

1. Pinch the heads off, and then remove black internal organs with your nails.
2. Dry roast the niboshi in a frying pan for 3-4 minutes so that the odor goes away.
3. Put the water in a pot and soak the niboshi for at least 30 minutes.
4. Put the pot over low heat, then carefully skim the scum off the top if there is any, and boil it for 5-10 minutes.
5. Strain it by using a strainer with kitchen paper or a clean cotton cloth. (If you use a fine-mesh strainer, you don’t necessarily have to spread paper or cloth on it.)
6. Well done! Niboshi dashi is ready!

Tips:
・For a better taste, their heads and internal organs should be removed, then it’s recommended to roast them, but those preparations aren’t necessary if you don’t have time to spare.
・At step 4, don’t boil it too much, otherwise the fishy flavour will be too strong.
・The after-extracted niboshi can still be eaten if they are fried and then seasoned with soy sauce, etc. or however you like.

Making Shiitake Dashi

Actually, dried shiitake is roughly divided into three types. Those are:
・Donko – harvested before the mushroom’s “kasa” (which means umbrella) opens. The rounded shape and cracked surface are its characteristics. It needs more time than others to stretch due to the thickness, but the texture and taste are very good.
・Koushin – the kasa opens flat and is not thick. Because it is the most reasonably priced among the others, and it stretches quickly, it is the most commonly used for everyday meals.
・Kouko – the mid-size between donko and koushin, combines both of their good points.

How to make
Ingredients:
・Dried shiitake 30-50g
・Cold water 1l

1. Lightly rinse with water to remove the dust.
2. Soak the dried shiitake in the cold water. (Putting plastic wrap on the surface of the water like a drop lid is recommended.)
3. Let it stand in the refrigerator for 10 hours to one day, or more.
4. Take the shiitake out (once soaked, the shiitake can no longer be used for dashi, but can be made into a dish of your choosing), and strain it by using a strainer with kitchen paper, or a clean cotton cloth, to completely remove the impurities.
5. Bring the shiitake water to a boil and then skim the scum off the top if it occurs.
6. Shiitake dashi is completed!

Tips:
・If you have more time, let dried shiitake rest in the sun for about 1 hour. The amount of vitamin D will be increased.
・The ideal water temperature for soaking dried shiitake is 0℃.

Making Awase Dashi (Combination of Katsuo & Kombu)

By combining the different dashi, the synergistic effect of umami is further enhanced. The following is the most common combination.

How to make
Ingredients:
・Kezuribushi 20g
・Kombu 10g
・Water 1l

1. Lightly wipe the surface of the kombu with a well-wrung clean cloth.
2. Soak the kombu in the water for at least 30 minutes.
3. Put over medium heat and then take out the kombu just before boiling. (For example, when small bubbles come up from the bottom of the pot.)
4. Increase heat to a boil, then turn off the heat, and add the kezuribushi.
5. Let it stand for 1-2 minutes while the kezuribushi sinks to the bottom of the pot.
6. Strain it by using a strainer with kitchen paper or a clean cotton cloth. (If you use a fine-mesh strainer, you don’t necessarily have to spread paper or cloth on it.)
7. Awase dashi is completed!

Conclusion

How do you feel about the methods above? Although these are Japan’s basic methods to extract dashi, there is not necessarily only one right answer. In fact, the extraction method and flavour of dashi are slightly different by chefs. If you become confident with your preparation, please try to experiment with the amount of each ingredient and extraction time to suit your taste.

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